Weed & feed is the generic name for a broad range of lawn chemical products designed to strengthen existing grass and kill off certain weeds in a single application. It generally improves your lawn’s ability to absorb water and food, and adds necessary nutrients which promote healthy growth. A healthy lawn, in turn, discourages weed propagation, enabling the use of a reduced amount of the product over time.
The “weed” portion of weed and feed is one of a variety of broad leaf-targeted herbicides (usually Dicamba, 2,4-D, and/or MCPP) that attacks dandelions, dollarweed, and most other green leafy weeds. The chemical is usually sold in granules that are applied to and subsequently absorbed by the leaves of the weed. The granules will not sit on grass blades, which is why weed and feed generally doesn’t kill regular grass unless it is incorrectly applied (over-saturating, especially, can cause grass death). There are also liquid forms of weed and feed that are generally applied with a foaming sprayer. The same concept applies for the foams: they sit on and are absorbed by large weeds, while they run off of grasses.
The “feed” portion of weed & feed is a fertilizer that contains some combination of nitrogen, phosphorous, and/or potassium to green up your lawn. The exact blend of fertilizer ingredients varies by brand, but all products will contain some percentage of nitrogen. Some products also include additional benefits, such as timed-released nitrogen for extended feeding.
When to Apply Weed & FeedIt’s important to apply weed & feed when weeds are actively growing. Applying weed & feed during the winter will have absolutely no effect on the lawn in the following spring and summer. You should spread weed & feed on damp/wet grass (use a sprinkler or apply just after rain) so that the granules stick better to the leafy portions of the weeds.
You should also pick a time when no additional rain is expected for two days, and you should avoid watering your lawn over this period. This allows time for the herbicide to absorb into the leaves. If it does rain or the lawn gets drenched, it will wash the granules off the leaves. In this case, however, you cannot re-apply the chemical immediately because you will over-feed the lawn and potentially cause a chemical scorch.
How to Spread Weed & FeedThere are a few important details to remember when spreading weed & feed. Keep all of these in mind when planning the job to achieve the best results. Note that these tips are not intended to replace manufacturers instructions, though you will find most manufacturers will recommend some variation of these tips.
■Make sure your lawn is a normal height (not too tall, not too short) – approximately 3-5 inches is good.
■Wait 2-4 days after mowing before applying. This protects your grass and helps ensure the weeds are actively growing. It also allows some of the leaves on the weeds to grow that may have been cut during mowing.
■Don’t water the lawn for two-four days after application. (Which means you shouldn’t apply the granules during a dry / hot spell).
■Be careful not to apply too much product as this will scorch your lawn. Check the manufacturer’s guidelines. Scorching occurs when you over-saturate the soil with the feeding chemical.
■Only apply weed & feed twice per year. Over-application can result in run-off that is harmful to the environment, such as nearby rivers, bays, or lakes/ponds. The feed portion of the chemical is actually more dangerous in these environments as it can encourage algae blooms which choke out fish and native plants.
■Be sure to spread the herbicide uniformly across the lawn for best results. You may choose to use a broadcast spreader and make two passes at half-application strength, rather than trying to spread at full strength in the first pass.
■Avoid spreading granules onto flowers, vegetables, and ornamental shrubbery. It will kill most broad leaf plants, regardless of whether you consider them weeds. If you must spread near a garden, either use a drop spreader or consider laying plastic temporarily over the area near where you will be spreading.
Planting Grass or Aerating after Weed & Feed
Weed & Feed prevents seed germination, so you should avoid planting new grass or aerating your lawn for at least four weeks. We recommend waiting longer, though. If you weed & feed in the spring and summer, spread grass seed and aerate in the fall each year.
Reasons Weed & Feed Didn’t WorkHere are some common reasons that weed & feed was ineffective:
■Weed & feed targets broadleaf weeds like dandelions, and dollarweeds. It does nothing for crabgrass and other grassy weeds. For these, you should use a crabgrass preventer in early spring. Make sure your weeds are on the list that the chemical targets.
■Mature weeds are not actively growing, so the product wasn’t as effective. Weed & feed should be applied early in the growing season and a couple days after mowing.
■Rain and sprinklers can wash away the granules. Make sure there is no rain in the forecast and avoid watering for two days after applying.
What if You Apply Too Much Weed & Feed?
The best way to avoid damaging your lawn is the flush out the weed & feed. Water your lawn with 1 to 2 inches of water for about 4 days. Don’t apply any other weed & feed until the following year.
Unfortunately, over watering like this can create run-off in certain drainage situations, so try to avoid the situation in the first place.
Safety Considerations & PetsLike every lawn chemical, standard precautions should be followed before applying weed and feed or any herbicide to your lawn. These safety instructions are NO substitute for manufacturers guidelines. Be sure to read the safety instructions on the bag and follow them.
■Wear long pants and long sleeves and gloves during application. Herbicides like Dicamba, 2,4-D, and MCPP can cause serious skin irritation.
■Avoid contact with eyes. If you get the dust of the product in your eyes, flush them for 15 minutes with water.
■Never ingest the product, leave the product where a child could ingest it, or leave it open for pets. Weed and feed chemicals can be harmful or fatal if swallowed. If swallowed, you should call 911 or a poison control center immediately.
■Keep pets and children off the lawn until after the first drenching rain after application. Visually inspect the lawn to ensure the granules are completely dissolved.
Labels: advice from your realtor, get your home ready for sale
Pre-Sale Renovation:
Home Seller Do’s and Don’ts You’ve probably seen those depressingly cheery home-themed TV shows: a couple needs to sell their house, they have an outdated kitchen, and a designer comes in and proceeds to convince them to renovate the kitchen into a stainless-steel-clad shrine to culinary greatness—for tens of thousands of dollars. In an ideal real estate market, that would add value, but in today’s market, expensive pre-sale renovations, for the most part, aren’t worth it. The numbers bear this out: In general, a home remodel will cost quite a bit more than you’ll get back when you sell; remodels done in 2010 will only recoup 60% of their price when the house is sold, according to Remodeling magazine’s 2010 Remodeling Cost vs. Value survey, done in partnership with the National Association of REALTORS® (NAR).
Two of the areas that potential buyers are often most pressured to remodel before selling are the kitchen and bathroom. Here, we’ll tackle both of those rooms, and let you know what to do—and what to avoid—when considering a pre-sale renovation:
Kitchen-Don’t put in expensive professional-grade cook’s appliances. You may choose a tricked-out, $10,000 Wolf stove, but the buyer may be a loyalist to Viking. Or, even worse, the potential buyer might be a take-out addict.
-Do, however, service the appliances you have, so that they work perfectly. And, if you have seriously outdated appliances that can be replaced for $1,000 or less (like swapping a dingy old fridge for a basic new one), that’s a good idea. Similarly, if there are any appliances that you lack, which most buyers consider essential, it makes sense to buy one (like a dishwasher—you can get a nice model for under $1,000).
-Don’t replace your cabinetry entirely—even if it’s a little outdated. It’s just too subjective. You might think sleek, white Scandinavian cabinets are the way to go, but you’ll be in a bind if your potential buyer prefers dark wood.
-Do invest in cabinet refacing if your cabinets are extremely outdated. Many refacing companies will give your cabinets a fresh façade for well under $2,000, and it’s a good investment in creating a positive impression of the room without doing a pricey knock-down.
-Don’t go granite crazy. Or marble. Or etched-Murano-glass-accented tile. Spending thousands of dollars on a new countertop and backsplash is downright dangerous, as there are so many different options these days, it’s impossible to find one that will please most people.
-Do hire a professional cleaning company to come in and make what you have sparkle. While this won’t magically make your tile look magazine-spread-worthy, it will certainly make it look a lot better, as discoloration from age often makes tile look even worse.
Bathroom-Don’t do expensive tub/shower repairs or replacements. Just like with the big-ticket kitchen fixes, this is a matter of taste. If you put in a round jetted tub, what if the buyer wants square? And is an amethyst-crystal steam shower really something everyone will love?
-Do replace dated bath and shower fixtures; this can be done generally quite inexpensively. For instance, if you have a 30-year-old, tiny showerhead, replacing it with a large, rainwater-style model will lend a subtle spa-like quality without costing a lot.
-Don’t replace your smallish vanity with a new, built-in model. A lot of remodelers emphasize the intrinsically relaxing qualities of having all your toiletries, towels and even reading material beautifully organized in one big unit made of high-end wood, marble and chrome. And it is certainly beautiful. But it’s also a risky choice, and a matter of taste.
-Do freshen up the vanity area. Invest in a big mirror and put bright lights over it. And a few hundred dollars spent on a nice faucet is well worth it, as, like the showerhead, it’s a true basic—and updating the basics, in most homes and markets, is all you should be focusing on.
Other tips for redoing your kitchen and bathroom frugally
Kitchen:-Declutter your counters. A disorganized kitchen is a buyer-deterrent. Clean up the counters and pare down countertop items to the essentials—toaster, microwave, coffee pot and not much more than that.
-Keep your pantry and cabinetry clutter-free too. You don’t have to alphabetize your cereals—just know that potential buyers will probably open those cabinets, so they won’t want a ladle falling out on their head.
-Give your kitchen table or breakfast bar some life. It’s simple—placemats, a colorful vase or two and a tasteful flower arrangement will reinforce the idea that the kitchen is the heart of the home.
Bathroom:-If you want to add a little life to the wall, try a simple, straight-lined wood or stainless-steel floating shelf with a few candles on it. It’s an elegant, boutique-hotel touch that doesn’t cost much.
-Toss down a colorful floor mat. Bathrooms are often devoid of color; this is a great way to add that color, and a little warmth.
-Again, clear clutter. Even your beauty essentials shouldn’t be on the counter if you’re in the open house stage.
Article By Dan Steward
RISMEDIA, January 25, 2011
Call Mike and Melody if you are want to talk about selling your home.Labels: cumming homes for sale, get your home ready for sale, presale renovations
